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I have long been fascinated by the art of Belgium's Isabelle de Borchgrave. An
invitation,to visit her studio in Brussels earlier this year was to provide
great inspiration for this collection. Isabelle is a magician with paint and
paper and creates costumes, often working only from old portraits. She thus
provides us the opportunity to see in detail today how these garments must have
looked. Valuable work that has been exhibited in museums worldwide. I have seen
her' Fortuny' and 'Medici' and during my visit, Isabelle's studio was ablaze
with colour as she prepared for her new exhibition 'Les Ballets Russes'
This year marks the Centenary of the sensational Russian Ballet being taken to
Paris by Diaghilev. He had many famous collaborators: Picasso and Matisse, but
it was Leon Bakst who captured my imagination. His costumes and set designs
were revolutionary and greatly influenced Paris fashion at the time His
dramatic use of rich and vibrant colour set me on a path of using an intense
palette for summer : deep russet, ochre, cognac, purple copper and espresso
shot with Prussian blue. Brilliant vermilion also mixes back with deep sea
greens and ink and all are balanced with sophisticated neutrals of mushroom
based stone and quartz, dusky pink, white and of course black.
This is the season of the dress, which is shorter, but can be layered over
narrow skirts or pants. There are angled and architectural pieces and some 60's
influences. Draped, spliced. folded and twisted dresses and tops with loose
cardigans in knits and silks. Exclusive European prints brushed with gold or
copper. Tumble washed Irish linen for high summer and exotic destinations. And
we have created necklaces from brilliantly coloured ancient stones and pieces
of antique silver and glass to complement the clothes.
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